On Wed, 17 Aug 2005 09:31:14 -0500, "Battleax"
wrote:


"RayV" wrote in message
roups.com...
I needed to hang a large, 30 x 30, corner cabinet that SWMBO had me
build. I decided to use the angled cleat method hoping for maximum
strength since a TV will sit on it. Anyway...

I angled the blade on my right-tilt saw to 45d and put the fence on the
left of the blade. I was ripping a 4x27 inch piece roughly in half for
the cleats(I didn't want to try and squeeze a push stick between the
blade and the fence on the right.

Expecting that the piece would want to lift up cutting it on the left,
I clamped a feather board to my fence to hold down the piece. So far
so good, or so I thought.

I couldn't get a push stick to help me all of the way with the cut
because of the clamp and the feather board so I ended up pulling the
piece through from the back of the saw.

I know this was wrong, so what is the right way to do this, aside from
buying a new tool.


So we can't pull from the back of a table saw now?

Not that this is any proof, but the guy that peddles (peddled?) the
Grip-Tite magnetic featherboard at woodworking shows used to do that
all the time as part of the demo.

I would say that with the featherboard the OP was using he had
sufficient control over the work (certainly as much as the Grip-Tite
guy) that he could safely go around the back of the saw and pull with
impunity.

What would be the safety issue, anyway? If the blade snatched the work
(unlikely with the featherboard), the worst that could happen is a
spear gets propelled across the shop, but the operator is well out of
the line of fire being at the back of the saw or on his way to it.

--
LRod

Master Woodbutcher and seasoned termite

Shamelessly whoring my website since 1999

http://www.woodbutcher.net

Proud participant of rec.woodworking since February, 1997