babygrand wrote:
If you're not in a big hurry, you might try nesting the pieces in an
alternating manner... in other words, place one board with the cup down=
, and
then it's book matched mate on top of it with the cup up, then repeat f=
or
the other two pairs. Apply a large, fFLAT board or metal plat to the to=
p of
the stach and lots of weight (100-200 lbs.) on top of that. It won't p=
ush
them flat right away, but as they come to equilibrium moisture content =
in
your shop(say 3 to 4 weeks?), a lot of the warp or twist may come out.
=20

I mentioned this before -- he may be in a hurry though -- I have been -- =

in the _past_.

Patience is the ingredient most often missing in any project. :-)

I just went through hell trying to get a cherry table to come together.=20
The wood twisted and bent every time I machined it. Finally I set the=20
table and pieces aside. I will start again now -- after 6 weeks (or is=20
it 8?). It was just too aggravating handling cherry that had not been=20
properly dried and was not acclimatized to my shop.


If that doesn't do it, you migfht try to find someone with a very wide
jointer, say a 12" wide blade. Frequently most of the warp and twist c=
an be
shaved out with a properly set up jointer. Even if you can only get on=
e
side good and flat, you can then run the pieces through a good planer w=
ith
the flat side down, and level up the top surface. Good luck.
=20
babygrand
-
"zz" wrote in message
news:4302158f.2411828@news-server...
=20
On Mon, 15 Aug 2005 14:11:30 -0500, "babygrand"
wrote:


Even if the boards were absolutely flat, I would think maple would be =
a
=20
poor
=20
choice for a guitar soundboard (I am assuming you are talking acoustic=

guitar, since you plan to plane them to 1/4") Not that maple wouldn't=

=20
work,
=20
it just won't produce the resonance of say a Sitka spruce, or other hi=
gh
quality fir board. Maple is so dense and rigid that it's natural
=20
vibration
=20
(amplitude) would be far less than a lighter spruce, and have much les=
s
"output" than a traditional soundboard. Maple would be, however, an
excellent choice for an electric solid body, especially curly or
=20
fiddleback
=20
maple.

babygrand
"zz" wrote in message
news:43008f26.72584@news-server...

just imported 3 pairs of bookmatched maple tops and i was dissapointe=
d
as to the quality of the boards....as this is the first time i have
purchased this type of product perhaps my expectations were a lttle
high....the figuring seems to be nice and look pretty much as
photographed prior to purchase....

the boards however are warped from end to end and from side to
side....the warp is an even curl in both directions...across the boar=
d
it would be about 1/16 - 3/32 and about the same or a little more fro=
m
end to end....also the boards are fine sawn not dressed....

i want to machine these to 1/4" and make guitar tops from these
boards..is this feasible??
or have I been sold substandard product??
am i expecting more than is normal for maple boards??

i have not published the name of the supplier and i guess if i have
been ripped off i would make sure that others are forewarned...
i would not know as i have no experience in buying this type of timbe=
r
see pics he
obviously i am showing the worst board
http://www.aargent.com.au/music/maple.htm
zz

its for chamberd body electric guitar
one more question should i hand plane it or put it through a milling
machine [thcknesser]??
thanks by the way for your encouraging comments
zz
=20
=20
=20


--=20
Will R.
Jewel Boxes and Wood Art
http://woodwork.pmccl.com
The power of accurate observation is commonly called cynicism by those=20
who have not got it.=94 George Bernard Shaw