"Gil HASH" wrote in message
...

Excellent! ,-)
I was deep in dictionnary to look for the differences between wire
brushes
wire bushes (why throw away?) and in plus it's a joke?
I'm a french newbie and times are hard for me to discover all your
tricks
but I try ;-)


Don't take it personally. He's just having a little fun with you.
Tom
runs a brush manufacturing business, and produces some excellent quality
products, well endorsed by readers here on RCM.

It might help to better describe your rust conditions----particularly
when
you talk about gages, calipers and a sign bar. Generally rust does
these
items harm, rendering them to scrap. After all, what good is a gage
if
it
isn't the proper size?

Harold

Hello Harold
I'm really laughting of this good joke.

Great! Tom's a joker and likes to have fun.

My gauges, calipers are a little dirty but not "rusty"
But I suppose I can't swipe them hardly with a sand paper

For precision tools, nothing abrasive should contact them. Remember,
instruments such as this are typically capable of resolving a tenth or less,
in the hands of one that is experienced. Any abrasion changes their
features, rendering them less than reliable. If your tools are truly
*dirty*, nothing more, a good cleaning with mineral spirits (paint thinner)
would probably do them no harm and should restore them to a clean condition.
Dismantling them is a good idea, but don't get micrometer components mixed
up should you have more than one. Do them one at a time, and wash
everything well, rinsing in some clean mineral spirits. If you have
compressed air at your disposal, use it to dry them completely, then use a
fine oil to lubricate the threads and reassemble them. Store them in a
good wooden tool box, or give them a light covering of oil when you're not
using them. If your atmosphere isn't humid, you should be able to leave
them in your toolbox unprotected, however. I have micrometers that were
purchased back in '57 that show no signs of rusting.

For the other parts like vises, all plans of the drill press, they are
both
dirty and rusty
I use very light sand paper (grade 400) and fater clening with kerdane (a
non smelling petrol)

If you find the rust is slightly heavier than will come off easily with the
400, there's nothing wrong with using a slightly coarser grade. As long as
you restrict the use to non working surfaces (ways of a mill or lathe, for
example), there's not a lot you can do to hurt the machines. Certainly, a
hand polished surface would be preferred to a rusty one. Use a little
solvent while you're sanding, so it keeps the dust down and the sanding
paper clean. Cuts faster and easier, too.

I wipe them with a tissue and a product named "rustol" perhaps have you
the
same name
But is it right or no?

Any of the packaged rust preventatives that don't leave a heavy residue
would probably serve you well if you've having trouble keeping your tools
from rusting. You might also consider keeping some desiccant packages in
the box, heating them often to dry them out. Anything to avoid your tools
from rusting. If you have more questions, feel free to ask. Many of us
are happy to help.

Harold