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Stephen M
 
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Scott,

It sounds as though you have a you have a good design that works well for
you. I was certainly incorrect to question the carrying capacity of a
cantelievered 2x4.

However, the point of post was to refute wzhat was suggested by Dave's post
that it was silly to invest in a steel rack system. I was trying to point
out that a 2x4-based system is not the best choice in some cases.

In my shop, by lumber storage rack is above my jointer. I have less than 3
verticle feet of wall space to work with. Also, I have finished walls
(Sheetrock). Unless I tore apart the walls, the verticles would be proud of
the wall. It may sound silly, but an extra 3"x10' is a footprint which I
would rather not surrrender in my shop.

-Steve




"Scott Lurndal" wrote in message
...
"Stephen M" writes:
Easy, if you design with a front support. This means that long boards

need
to be threaded in from the end or at an angle. This would not be possible

if
your lumber rack were on a 12' wall.

Would a 2x4 handle a fully cantilevered design? If it did how deep you

you
make your verticle members? A 2-by on the flat would not have enough meat

in
front of the fastener for my taste. Idunno, but it sounds like a

reasonable
appllication for steel to me.


When I built my shed, I doubled up the wall studs on one
wall (at 0', 4' and 8'). I notched the inside faces of each paired stud
with a 3/4" deep by 3.5" high by 3.5" wide notch. Insert an 18" length

of
two-by-four, secure with a couple of 16d sinkers and you have a
cantilevered lumber storage rack. Have three levels, at 1' from
the floor, 2.5' and 4' from the floor. Each holds an amazing amount
of lumber.


-Steve

"Dave" wrote in message
news:ZjwAe.162164$nG6.108942@attbi_s22...
Why in the world would you pay big bucks for one when you can build

your
own
out of 5 or 6 2x4's and scrap lumber for 10 bucks or so??