G Henslee wrote:
Evodawg wrote:

G Henslee wrote:

Rudy once more attempts justification when he wrote:



Ours is 3/4" "structurefloor" an engineered OSB type product which
is attached to the 16" OC 11.5" TJI's by screws and construction
adhesive.
Over that, the tile guy glued and stapled (used almost 2 boxes
~10,000 staples) 3/8" ply and then tiled. In some of the $500K- 1M
homes in the area, the General has him use a 3/8" dense medium
grained chipboard (not MDF, Hardibacker or OSB) the name of which I
can't recall right now, over the 3/4 stuff. The stuff is dense
alright but has little structural strength. You can snap it with
your hands. It runs about $ 7.00 a sheet so I went with the ply for
a few bucks more for the added strength.
Been in the house for over a year and it works for us.




Dear Rudy the Screwed homeowner,
Technically, you don't have a clue what you're talking about. Your
advice is flawed at best, and your ignorance shows every time you
wail about using plywood or chipboard as you attempt to justify the
screwing you got regarding your tile substrate.

For the OP
The purpose of an acceptable tile substrate is not to provide
structural strentgh. Structural strength is designed and built-in to
the subfloor prior to the finish floor substrate. The finish floor
substrate needs to supply an even, flat, and flex-free base for the
tile or stone. The TCA, tile manufacturers worldwide, and every
engineer/ architect, tile professional, etc, I've ever known or dealt
with advises against using chipboard, particle board, luan, most
plywoods, etc for tile substrates.

For the screwed homeowner
$500K- 1M doesn't mean ****. To think that the price of the house
(in todays world) means one is guaranteed that non-inferior
workmanship and/ or materials will be produced throughout the house
is absurd. Once again, your justification(s) for having an inferior
tile substrate are worthless.

You're developing quite an inferiorioty complex about the inferior
substrate your 'General' stuck you with Rudy. I bet we'll never here
a peep out of you around here when the grout starts cracking. If
this is a tract development, you and your neighbors will be screaming
class action law suit very soon.


BTW, Some of the "experts" here said the 3/8 wasn't adequate. I'm
sure they'll sound off here.


Always glad to help the ignorant, correct the morons that sound off
here, and support and add to those that give correct advice based
upon experience and knowledge of home building and repair. If that's
an 'expert' then so be it and I am one. You're not.

Meantime, check out some decent attorneys and for pete's sake Rudy,
quit showing us your ass about this topic every time it comes up.

-end of conversation-



geeee I hope I gave the right advice, would hate to get flamed by
you. hahaha ... I do this type of work and yes I have had to replace
bath floors which were installed wrong by Jose and Jos B. If the floor
is not sturdy the grout will crack. 3/4" and 1/4" hardy should be ok
if the floor joist are 16" on centers.

Rich


No chance Rich. This other guy and his "I got screwed with it so it has
to be good" attitude doesn't cut it.

Got cha, I came in late on the whole thread, so not sure what has
happened in the past. ; )


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