On Wed, 6 Jul 2005 08:20:37 -0400, "Stephen M"
wrote:

After dulling a couple of inexpensive circular saw blades and making a
mess
out of a couple of long cuts (I know I was weaving officer, but I'm not
drunk!) I did a little research and discovered the recommendation to use
carbide tipped blades. For occasional use, how are the inexpensive
($10-20
each) blades? Do they have enough carbide to bother having them
sharpened?
And which would be better - 24T, 40T or higher?

We really need to know what type of saw. I *assume* that you are using a 10"
blade in some type of table saw.

With tooth count, more is not necessarily better.... count and geometry
depends on use (rip, crosscut, laminate). Your best bet is to start with a
40 tooth combination blade. I picked up some *really* cheap blades once.
Once I have tried them they kind of freighten me. I would aim for $40-50
for a respectable medium quality blade.

Now for the router. I've got a pretty good router, and a good set of
carbide bits. However, I don't understand the difference between a
straight
cutting bit and a mortise bit. To my obviously untrained eye they look
the
same, except the straight bit is 'longer' than the mortise bit. Am I
going
to bring an end to the world by using the wrong bit?

No. I suspect that a mortise bit is just straight bit that does not have a
guide bearing on the bottom.

Finally, what is a good joint to use for the fixed shelves? I'm looking
at
the top, bottom, and one in the middle for a little stability. I've
looked
at putting a 3/8 dado in the upright, and a 3/8 x 3/8 rabbet in the shelf,
or just a 3/4 dado in the upright. Which of these would be best, or is
there a better joint?


Go for the 3/4" dado. It's equally effective and requires a single cut. Do
*not* assume that your stock is 3/4" thick. Most plywoods are *almost* -
stated thickness.

Cheers,

Steve

Steve... he mentioned "circular saw blades"... don't know if in a skillsaw or
TS... or even in a RAS or CMS??


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing