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Ipe decking questions
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Pat Barber
Posts: n/a
Since you are going to a LOT more expense, I would
consider an "under the deck" method of fastening
instead of a god awful number of screw holes that
will need to be plugged.
(1) IPE is VERY hard and will wreck most HSS edges.
On a large deck, think several drill bits and
countersinks.
(2) Look at "Deck Master" products that will allow you
to fasten most/all boards from below. This will be
a spec slower but the results are 200% better in the
end.
Here are two different products with similar results.
Take a peek:
http://www.mcfeelys.com/subcat.asp?subcat=20.4.2
or
http://www.mcfeelys.com/subcat.asp?subcat=20.4.1
or
http://www.ipeclip.com/prod.htm
and don't forget those folks at
www.strongtie.com/products/connectors/TA.html
I would never fasten from above unless I had to.
wrote:
There seems to be some, but not a lot of ipe data already on this
newsgroup. I'm preparing to have a ~500 ft^2 deck replaced using 1x6
ipe (the old deck was 2x6 cedar). Because there is almost no local
experience using ipe I've had to spec out everything myself to decking
contractors. I think I have most of the topics covered (anchorseal, ss
fasteners, carbide teeth on saws). I'd really appreciate if anyone
could provide their suggestions on:
1.DRILLING: What is the optimal drill type for drilling & counterboring
for 3/8" plugs? My current ideas a
a. drilling two separate holes: 3/8" carbide forstner bit for the plugs
and 3/16" carbide brad tipped for the screws or
b. HSS drill bit/countersink/counter bore kit from Lee Valley
Any recommendations on material/drill type/ease of sharpening?
2. My existing deck is 25 years old. The framing is 2x10 treated @ 16"
centers and upon inspection it looks very sound- no rot/soft spots.
I'm not sure how to evaluate how many years may be left in it. Of
course, I don't want to put a 40 year deck on a frame with 10-15 years
left on it. Does anyone have real experience with life expectancy of
1980 treated lumber vs. today's treated lumber? These joists look a
lot straighter than what I've seen lately at Home Depot. Cost to
reframe is ~$2500 using 2x8's.
Any and all advice from experienced ipe users is welcomed!
Thank you.
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