Ken,
I think I'm going to have to actually prep the wood and start turning
to completely understand your directions. They are very clear and I
do understand, but I'm sure a few practice pieces will make it a lot
simplier.

The tenon on the SS Niles stopper on my website is 3/4" but all the
production pieces from now on are going to be 1/2". This week I
should be getting a large order and will try one using your
instuctions.

As to your suggestion about drilling a hole in the stopper base, two
reasons I didn't do this (I did think about it); 1) I have a lot of
potters, glass blowers and plastic composite workers who want these
stopper bases and they prefer a tenon: 2) it's really easier to drill a
hole in the wood turning, reverse chuck on a woodworm (I use pieces of
wood turned to 3/8" like a jam chuck) and glue the same as you would
with a wooden dowel. I found I turned the tops a lot faster; blank
in chuck, finish/shape bottom, drill hole, finish rest of shape, part
off, reverse chuck, sand tiny nub, done.

When you use the dowels, don't you have to drill a hole in the bottom
of the wood? I never used the dowels so I really don't know. As to
saving material and labor, it's all done in an automated machine so
machining costs would probably be the same. It's a small 2 brothers
operation, local, nice guys, I'm not making a lot of profit, we're sort
of sharing the profit, they worked their price down to keep me from
going to Taiwan or China, plus they made sure the steel and rubber
rings were FDA approved for food contact......not that all this has
anything to do with our conversation!
: )

Thanks,
Ruth
www.torne-lignum.com