wrote:
Ken,
The first one in the second row, walnut and box elder, is what I had
in mind. Picture that one upside down, the smaller diameter ball would
be where the 3/8" tenon fit in so it wouldn't be hollowed, then the top
just like yours. Any advice on knowing how far to turn during the
first process so I don't have the SS Niles Stopper tenon poking
through?

Ruth,
How long is the 3/8" shaft on your SS stopper? Looks to be about 3/4".
When you're turning the first stage (what will be the inside) end it
about 1 1/4" from the bottom of the piece.
Then when you're drilling the hole (in the second stage) you'll have a
little extra wood below the hollow part to be able to trim down the end
with a skew after drilling the hole to maybe, 1" depth or as far as you
dare without coming through the inside.
BTW, if you looked at my pdf file, I recommended using superglue on one
end so it could be easily pried apart after the first stage turning.
I've since found double-stick tape to be easier and more convenient--the
same stuff used to put up plastic sheeting on the inside of windows. Put
pressure on each joint with a C-clamp for a few seconds and it will hold
very well. I only put about an inch of it on one end, opposite of where
the scroll chuck will be holding the piece. If it's hard to pry apart,
just dab some rubbing alcohol in the joint to dissolve the tape's cement.
Another BTW--if you don't mind me making a design change suggestion on
your SS stopper--how about instead of turning a tenon on the steel,
drill a 3/8" hole through so we could glue our own dowel in, or turn a
short tenon on the stopper body to fit in the SS stopper base's hole.
This would save material for you, and maybe even labor (and cost).
Just my 2 pennies...

Ken Grunke
webmaster, Coulee Region Woodturners of SW Wisconsin
http://www.crwoodturner.com/

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