"BobS" wrote in
:

Buster,

Lot's of good blades out there but eventually you will want to rip
down some very hard hardwoods that are quite thick, which will burn
easily if everything is not aligned and you're not using a sharp
blade.

I've settled on a 30 tooth Forest WW II for ripping and a 80 tooth
Freud chrome blade for cross-cutting with a dead-on alignment. Those
chrome blades are no longer available but there are others just as
good or better by several manf.

I have ripped thru a 7' long section of hard maple at a slight bevel
(5°) through almost 3" thickness and never burned a bit. Other blades
can do that also - as long as you're TS is aligned properly. So spend
a few dollars on a dial indicator setup so you can check blade runout
and the alignment of everything critical to making good cuts.

Bob S.


Those friends that are coming over to help you unload the saw may have a
dial indicator already. It's the sort of thing that's very useful, but
not every day.

Those same friends will have favorite saw blades as well, and may know a
good local resource for sharpening. If a buddy of mine were to just be
buying a saw, there might be a 'extra' blade available for a starter.

Bob S,, there's a stack of those chrome Freud blades sitting on the
discount table at the local (Northern California) Rockler store, 25% off
or so. They can still be found some places...

Patriarch