David says...

I want a longer open time glue and UF fits the bill. Does it irritate
your nose, breathing, or skin? Is it only a problem when it is in
powder form and floats in the air during handling? How about when
sanding through glue lines?

There isn't a better alternative is there? I don't want to use the
foamy Gorilla Glue type glues.

I want performance on a par with Titebond but with a much longer open time.

Dave

How about a slow setting epoxy? In most ways it is superior to PVA
glues. I just picked up a supply of the slow setting #3 hardener for
System 3. It gives 40 min of open time before gelling at 90°. The #2
hardener was setting too fast. IMO, the only disadvantage is that it is
too runny for most glue jobs without a thickener, and maybe slightly
higher cost. Other than that, it is a dream. It will glue just about
anything, there is less need for clamping, it is gap filling, it dries
clear, and it scrapes and sands away much easier than any other glue,
except for maybe hide glue, which is my second favorite. It does a good
job of filling small surface imperfections like planer tearout and
freezing in place unsound knots. Once they are shellacked over, the
repairs look very good. You can get a quart of System 3 resin and a
pint of hardener for about $45 at Woodcraft. Rockler and Lee Valley
sells West Systems for about the same price. That isn't a whole lot
more than Titebond ounce for ounce.

I like the Titebond liquid hide glue better than PVA glue, and it has a
slightly longer open time. What's really nice is that if you do screw
up, you can undo just about anything with an iron and a few drops of hot
water. That saved my ass recently. I put a piece on upside down and
since it was hide glue, I had it apart and reglued in minutes. Any
other glue, and I would have been doing a much more radical repair. A
big disadvantage is short shelf life. BTW, for PVA glues, you can get
Elmer's brand for a lot less money than Titebond.