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dadiOH
 
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wrote:
Hello,

I have a cope joint to make in some 2.5 inch mape crown moulding.
I just need a quick sanity to check to make sure I'm doing this right
because my first couple of test pieces just weren't making it.

First I put an inside miter on the crown. I do this by laying the
crown upside down against the table and fence of my miter saw and
mitering it at 45 deg. This worked fine for the outside corners so
I'm assuming it should work to get an accurately cut inside miter.
If it doesn't then I must be really missing something....

Then I mark the curved end with a pencil.

Then, as one previous poster suggested, I back cut it wayyyyy past
where I think it needs to be back cut to, and then back cut it a
little more following the pencil line on the face of the cut.

When I put the coped end up against a butt end at the spring angles
they don't even seem to want to meet. They are kinda sorta getting
there but they aren't close enough to where you could start cleaning
them up with a rasp.

Am I missing something fundamental here?

My cut along the face was pretty accurate, not perfect, this stuff is
really hard to cut, but pretty close to the line. Maybe not back
cutting enough?


All the miter does is show you the contour of the molding. You then cut
(at 90 degrees) along the contour. When finished, the end is sort of a
reverse image and fits by butting the end against the side of the other
piece. You can fudge the 90 degree cut slightly, beveling toward the
back except at bottom, so that only the leading edge of the coped piece
contacts the other.

If that's what you have been doing, I haven't a clue as to what you are
doing wrong.

--
dadiOH
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