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Phil Munro
 
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You may have a break in the wire near the switch or near one of
its other connection points, BUT the break might be just inside the
insulation so it looks like the wire is ok. Try pulling on the wire at
those points to see if you can pull the broken piece OUT of its
insulated covering.
OR, try pulling and pushing with the power on and observe the light
when you do to see if the connection is being made.
OR, you may have a wire nut connection that is pulled out or broken.
Especially look at the neutral run.
It is very unlikely that the wire is broken away from a box in the
wire's run. --Phil

Andrew Duane wrote:

If you want to test continuity on a long run, disconnect the powered
end (e.g. at the circuit breaker box), and connect the white and black
leads at the far end. Then check for continuity back at the box.

Higglity wrote:

My post light is not working, it is connected to an night-sensor and a
wall switch that is mounted in the house.

I thought it might be the sensor, so I removed it but nothing.

Then I tested the line with the socket disconnected and the switch
flipped on --nothing. (just bare wire off the post.)

Next I took apart the switch, it has power. The porch light is on the
same circuit, different switch, it works.

Next I located in the basement where the wire leaves the house. There
was junction box that changed the line to outdoor-rated wiring (my
assumption). I then flipped on the CB and switch. No power to the line
coming from the house.

Does this mean the wire from the switch to the junction box has an
open?
Is it common that 14AWG copper get opens in them after they are
installed? My house is 9 years old. I wish I had a continuity tester
with really long leads.

How do I trace where the open is? How do I rerun wire that is behind
dry wall?

Thanks -- Phil




--
Phil Munro Dept of Electrical & Computer Engin
Youngstown State University
Youngstown, Ohio 44555