Meirman,

Its been a while since I replaced an ignition assembly on a
mower, but I recall that it is a very easy "remove and replace "
operation and the cost of the unit isn't too huge relative to the
cost of a mower.

Some random thoughts:
1) Check the electronic kill switch on the mower. Make
certain that your mower knows that you "want it to run."
Otherwise, you'll get no spark.
2) Make certain that you don't have a sheared woodruff key.
3) Check for proper gap between the magneto and the
flywheel magnet.
4) Test resistence readings on the ignition coil. This is
easy and very informative.
5) Examine, clean and/or replace the spark plug.
6) Test the coil output by inserting a nail into the spark wire
boot and then hold the other end of the nail near the block
while cranking the engine.
7) Test the spark plug outside of the engine by placing it
against the block and testing for spark. A plug will fire
more easily in the open than it will in the combustion
chamber. This helps determine if you are getting any
coil output.
8) Try temporarily reducing the spark gap to about 1/2 of
the factory spec. This makes it much easier to get a
spark from a less-than-perfect system. This is a good
diagnostic. Also, an engine can be run this way, although
it is a somewhat less than optimal situation. The smaller
spark impacts engine timing, but not in any destructive
manner. (to the best of my knowledge).

Good luck,
Gideon

================

meirman wrote in message ...
Someone gave me a used push lawnmower with a Tecumseh 4-stroke engine.
It has no points or condensor under the fly wheel, so I assume that
means it has electronic ignition.

Is there a clear way to test the ignition coil/assembly to see if it
is good or not?

I get no spark, afaict, using an inline neon spark plug tester.

Am I correct in thinking that repairing the ignition coil assembly
will be next to impossible? And that buying a new one will cost more
than any push lawnmower that is probably 10 years old is worth?

Meirman
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