"Robert11" wrote in message
...
Hello:

Looks like I will have to start considering a new roof.
Live outside of Boston.
House is about 30 yrs old, original roof, and the foundation is 28' x 48'
Tri level (split type)

Haven't even thought about roofs in many a year.
So, let me please ask:

a. It's the original roof. Is it normal to place a second layer right
over
the first, or must
the original layer be removed first ? Why ? Pros and Cons ?

b. For the dimensions noted, what might be a very approximate cost to do
?

c. What's a "good" brand (and type) of roof shingles to ask for these
days
?

Not sure how they are specified; is it by shingle weight, thickness,
or... ?
What do I (probably) want, or what should I ask for ? (expect to be
in house for a long time)

d. I'm sure there are many questions to ask the contractors when they
come
over for a look and estimate that I am not even thinking of. Can anyone
suggest what to ask, or what I should be considering also, please.

Much thanks; really appreciate it,
Bob

I'm from the north shore of Boston---Just had a new roof installed. Had two
layers (2nd was 20 years old). Put on 30 yr. architectural shingles. You
need everything spelled out in the contract. Some guys are very sloppy in
their estimates/contracts, fortunately, I had one that was very detailed and
left nothing that could later be cause for dispute or misinterpretation. I
had an 8" drip edge and 6 ft wide ice and water dam protection --3 ft. is
standard width. All hand nailing, not one nail by a nail gun. All new
flashing and releading of the chimney. Ridge vent vs simple roof vents--The
roofers that I spoke to were not very excited about a ridge vent. I ended
up with 3 roof vents (not powered and not turbine type). I have gable vents
at each end of the house and consensus was that the simple roof vents would
do the job. My roofer will not install a second layer of shingles, he wants
to make sure that there is a solid, no problem roof, underneath the
shingles. Contract should spell out exactly what the extra charge will be if
there has to be repair work--How many $$$/sq. ft. if it's plywood and how
many $$$/linear ft. if it's sheathing.
Money/deposit---one guy wanted 50% down upon acceptance of the contract. Be
very careful of giving too much up front. Any reputable contractor that has
good credit should have the standard 30 days to pay type of deal. He
shouldn't need your money to buy materials. Mine wanted a $300 deposit and
the balance a day or two after completion. I had a very good experience, no
aggravation. Crew of 10-12 showed up at 7:30 a.m., no goofing off. The
second day they were at the house at 7 a.m.; constantly cleaning up and when
they left all was in good shape. For a house like yours I would guess that a
reasonable estimate would be in the $8000-9000 range.
MLD