On Sun, 9 May 2004 16:53:32 +0100, in uk.d-i-y "Chris Kaley"
strung together this:

Just about to re-wire my kitchen - I last did this in 1984, and could do
with a couple of pointers.

1). Regulations are bound to have changed since then - anyone know off-hand
the minimum distance from a power socket to either a sink/drainer or hob? I
have a feeling it's 30cm, but need to confirm this.

Correct, although I usually go for 300mm from a draining board and
600mm from a sink where possible.

The question is, can I still use one switch box, or do I need one each for
the hob and oven unit (the hob will be installed in the work surface above
the oven). Likewise, do I need 2 x 6mm flex outlets or can I connect the
hob to the oven unit? (They are both Neff appliances).

Depends on the ratings, if they're both under a total of around 30A
then yes, one switch into two outlets would be fine. If they're over
then it's 2 supplies you'll be wanting. I'd fit the hob supply switch
under the worktop in this case, unless you don't mind having another
switch above.

3.) Last (but not least) I fitted a King waste disposal unit to the sink
unit all those years ago, activated by a fused spur. Is this still the
preferred method of operation now, or is there some other means of
activating the device?

That's still an acceptable method.

4). Oh, one other thing - our washing machine has a built in timer (which
is useful, because we are on economy 7 and can run the machine at night more
cheaply). The new machine (which doesn't have a timer) will be built into a
carcass, and plugged into a socket beneath the work surface, and the only
easy access to the power supply will be via a fused spur switch. Does
anyone know if it's possible to get a timer unit which can be fitted inside
a metal patress box?

Try one of these in place of the spur.
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Ind...ater_Timers_1/
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SJW
A.C.S. Ltd.