got this useful response in the rec.woodworking ng.

BobS

Find some "padding" Poly (wipe-on) that is in the same gloss (flat/antique,
satin/semi-gloss, gloss). Clean the worn area using water and mild soap
(liquid dish soap), dry then clean with mineral spirits. If unsure of the
gloss level buy a couple of small cans of poly (satin and gloss) and test it
on a spot. Can always be sanded down or just coated over.

Use a fine grade sandpaper (300 grit) to even out the wear area and feather
the edges out to where the floor finish is not worn - use a light touch.
This will dull the area - (don't worry, the poly will bring back the shine).
If you have any deep scratches you may have to spot those first to build
them up before applying the finish coats. Just use a small artists brush to
paint the poly over the scratches. Let it dry, sand the scratch areas even
(300 grit) and redo if necessary following the instructions.

Before applying any poly, clean the area using the mineral spirits and let
it dry by wiping it all off. Now, follow the instructions on the Poly can
(use lint free cloth, etc....) and wipe on a thin coat of poly - slowly but
evenly following the grain of the wood. You will soon get the feel for
doing this by feathering the edges as you near the unworn areas. Start
lifting the pad as you get near the edge you're refinishing.

It takes about three hours (+/-) to become dry to the touch depending on
temp and humidity but wait at least double that before applying more thin
layers. Don't worry about how it looks right now - additional coats will
fix that but try to apply it evenly. The cloth pad should not "drag" (feel
resistance) but rather float as you apply the poly. If you feel it drag,
apply more poly and avoid the temptation to go back over what you just
applied (even if you missed a spot) if it's been longer than about15
seconds. Wait until it dries again (3 hrs) before going back over an area.

Use some 400 to 600 grit wet/dry paper to knock down any nibs and to provide
some tooth for the next application. Use a light coating of mineral spirits
and the wet/dry paper to "lightly" sand over the area. This will dull the
previous coat of poly. Clean with mineral spirits and let dry. Wipe on
another coat of poly and repeat the above process until it blends in with
the rest of the area.

The final coat should not require any sanding and as long as you used the
same gloss level, it should look pretty close to the rest of the floor.
Poly dries in 24 hrs but takes about a week to cure - so tread lightly on
the area and don't cover it with a throw rug or anything else until after it
has cured.

As a final note, I believe it is the Varathane brand that states in the
instructions that their wipe-on poly can be used for spot treating floors.

I'm sure others will have some sage advice for you also.
"Mike" wrote in message
news:jrIhe.2882$5b1.642@trnddc07...
Here's where I get confused - if poly creates a barrier over the wood do I
need a poly cleaner/polisher?

Mike
"Blue" wrote in message
...

"Abe" wrote in message
...
Floor is coated w/ polyureathane with moderate wear in door and
entrance. I
don't want to refinish floor.
Can I clean and wax it? If so, which cleaner and wax should I use. Any
other suggestions for improving
finish w/o resurfacing?
----------
Start with vinegar diluted in water, a mop, and elbow grease for the
main cleaning.

Poster suggested recoating with wax but I wonder if after the vinegar
cleaning above, one of the Minwax products wouldn't be easier and more
effective?



Then you can use butcher's wax (time consuming and requires a buffing
machine), or use Wood Preen, which is a liquid wax and cleaner. Not as
good results as butcher's wax, but much easier to apply.

http://www.bwccompany.com/ sells both items.