No water concerns; just want to get rid of the protruding stubs before
patching the drywall holes. Could care less about the tubing remnant left
inside the wall.

I tried the Dremel tool approach using one of Harbor Freight's diamond
cutting discs,
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=31501. I
wasn't optimistic, given copper's galling characteristics, but it worked
like a charm, no copper plating on the disc at all, worked beest at the
highest rpm. Just gripped the stub with a needle nose pliers to steady it
and pull it as far out as the remnant of vertical riser tube would permit.
Two cautions: 1) wear a dust mask and goggles, as the cutter throws a
surprising amount of gypsum dust when, not if, you slip and contact the
surrounding drywall and 2) be very careful not to slip badly enough to
damage the new water line or fitting with the cutting disc. Finally, push
the tubing remnant back into the hole far enough to be below the surface of
the drywall compound patch.

Plan B was to use a 3-inch hole saw on an 18-inch extension from a half-inch
electric drill to cut an eccentric hole in the drywall for hand access (I
have fairly small hands). Then reach inside the wall with a mini tubing
cutter to cut the pipe. Didn't try it since I prefer patching small drywall
holes to patching large ones (less obvious and you can put off the
repainting).

Thanks to all who responded. Though I was really hoping to unearth some,
possible obscure, specialized plumbing tool designed for the purpose. Might
be a niche market for some enterprising inventor/manufacturer; even if it
doesn't incorporate a slip-joint :-)

Thanks,
David Merrill

\
"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
...
What goes through my mind. You say there is a stub of copper. But, what's
the vertical pipe in the wall? Is the rest of the pipe galv, or what?
Seems
as though that needs to be answered.

I presume you think the short section of copper might corrode and leak?