wrote:
First, go to flushmaster.com
We have low water pressure in that a shower feels like a drizzle. To
solve this it seems to me that you could put one of these sealed
pressure tanks in hooked to you city water for water supply, but with
that pressure system you could run your water pressure up to 60 lbs
or
more if your plumbing could stand it.
The sealed pressure system tank doesn't cost much, some of smaller
ones
little over 50$. But expectedly the bigger, more water volume would
probably be best. But I think the size is regulated by the amount of
water supplied in a certain amount of time.
They seem easy to hook into you water system. Just like making a
splice, one pipe in and one pipe out. The only thing you might have
to
put some solenoid to turn water supply on and off, when tank reaches
desire pressure, but those are basically inexpensive.
J Meehan has some good advice. If that doesn't cure the problem:
Before anything else you need to determine if you have a pressure or a
flow problem. Check your static pressure (pressure reading with no
water running). A plug type guage (just hold it against a spigot)
isn't all that expensive. Then check the dynamic pressure. The
pressure reading with water running preferably right by where you are
reading the pressure.
The dynamic will be lower but shouldn't be by much. If it is grossly
different you have a flow restriction somewhere. From most common to
least:
1. Plugged filter system
2. Corroded pipes
3. Partially closed valve up stream of point of use.
To illustrate with a grossly simplified hydraulic explanation.
Hydraulic pressure will be the same throughout the closed system. That
is, if street pressure is 60psi, you will have 60 psi at any fixture in
the house -as long as no water is running-. That is static pressure.
Restrictions cause a reduction in pressure as there is insufficient
flow to maintain pressure. Corroded pipes would allow a 60psi static
(even a pinhole would eventually reach system static pressure) but
could have near zero dynamic.
Harry K
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