According to Harry Muscle :
Thanks for the suggestions. This is going in my backyard, so the wife
has to approve of the look. Anything overly tall will look a little
out of place and overpower the whole backyard, so there goes the really
high walls and 1:1 pitched roof ...
Chances are that it will already do that. Most people can't hide a 12x15
shed regardless of what the roof looks like.
[We can, but that's another story ;-)]
however, as long as this shed is
like a garage inside, I will be more than happy (the house has no
garage, hence me building this shed)
I'm guessing you're suggesting windows to allow light to come in ... is
this really important? It will contribute somewhat to heat loss,
expense, and complicate the construction, so I was hoping to not have
any windows, just double doors at one end of the shed.
Lighting is _really_ important in a workshop. Painting the inside white
helps too.
My workshop (the garage) has commercially made thermopane units, which aren't _too_
bad. They're relatively small. 3 of them, only 16" wide, perhaps 40" tall,
in an oversized double garage. I wish I had more of them. White painted
walls and LOTS of lighting makes up for it.
The shed, which isn't heated, has home made windows (PT 1x6 frames (fence
boards), "left over" single pane glass). It doesn't complicate the
structure because I designed the lites to fit _between_ the studs
(24 OC), and notched the horizontal frame components to fit over the studs.
[Didn't even have to cut the glass.]
As it worked out, I was able to put in triple section windows, almost 6
feet wide, without having to cut any studs nor install headers. Frames
are "foamed" in, and are air tight.
With full heating, you'd probably be best looking at a few strategically
placed tall/narrow (stud space width) thermopane units. It'd be a lot
cheaper to make the frames yourself around custom-made thermopanes than
to buy pre-made.
As for the floor I was planning on using 2x6 PT lumber, supported on 12
or so concrete blocks ... I still have to finalize all of this and
actually read up on how to do the foundation, etc ...
You'll probably find that sheds with more than 100 square feet of space
require "real" poured footings, not cinder blocks by the OBC. [Each
municipality gets to decide at which size the OBC kicks in.]
If you're going to put power in, they're probably going to _insist_
on you following the OBC.
When I reconstructed my shed, I was only able to "stay" with cinderblocks
because it was an existing shed. Secondly, the idjit who originally
built it used 2x6 24" OC, with a 12 foot span, and to stabilize the
floor, placed blocks under the joist mid-points.
It _might_ have been relatively steady to begin with, but after all
of these cinder blocks _rolled_, it became a trampoline.
DON'T repeat that goof. You'll regret it.
In order to fix it, I had to jack up the shed, put in 12x12 (I wish they
were larger) concrete pads under the corners and ring joist midpoints,
on top of a 4" bed of gravel[+]. Then, instead of the stupid cinder blocks
under the joist midpoints, slung in a doubled up 2x8" beam underneath,
end points supported by the ring joist midpoint blocks.
Once all that was done and releveled, was able to rebuild the upper part.
[Original single-pitch roof sheared off (2x4 12' span!!!!), replaced with
trusses, metal roof, windows installed, stupid curve top door moved and
replaced with a proper square one, painted white inside, offcut vinyl floor,
vinyl siding, and a cute little deck ;-) It's a work of art ;-)]
[+] 24x24 Patio slabs would have been ideal, but the ones available aren't
good enough (I'd have wanted 2" thick and/or rebar)
--
Chris Lewis, Una confibula non set est
It's not just anyone who gets a Starship Cruiser class named after them.
|