In article , Larry Jaques
says...
On Sat, 21 May 2005 16:24:11 -0700, the inscrutable charlie b
spake:
stoutman wrote:
This has probably been asked before, but...
I recently started watching David Marks on DIY. I have yet to see him cut a
"real" tenon. Always loose tenons using a multi router.
Why is this? Is there an advantage to loose tenons that I am unaware of?
Does he just like to show off his multi router? Are they just easier to
make?
I use to only watch Nahmmy and I have learned 90% of what I know from him.
Nahmmy "rarely" made loose tenons.
Confused...
Several advantages in most situations to use loose tenon
joinery.
1. The parts that would otherwise have tenons can
be their actual length NOT their actual length
PLUS the tenon lengths Two less chances to
make a mistake
Yeah, and two fewer chances, too. gd&r
2. With a piece of stock ripped to the desired tenon
width and planed to the needed thickness you
can cut off what you need on a chop saw or cross
cut them on the table saw. If you blow it you're
not out an entire tenoned part. Think of the
wood you'd need if you blew the tenons on a bed
rail.
Ayup, and you can't just make the bed a bit shorter. Mattresses and
box springs don't squish much in length. 
3. You can make the loose tenons out of any wood
you want and maybe scrap at that. Want the
tenon really strong - try ebony!
Wouldn't you want the same (or physically similar) wood so they had
the same expansion/contraction rates? That's what I've always read.
I've noticed that David Marks always seems to use the same wood for
the tenons as the pieces he's joining. I wondered if that was the
reason why, or if it was just because there was usually plenty of
scrap available. But why else use something expensive for the tenons
since they don't show? Is there another reason or is it for stability?
(He also always veneers both sides of his base stock, and has
explicitly said that's for stability, but often uses a different
(nice, but cheaper) wood for the side that doesn't show.)
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