"charlie b" wrote in message
...
George wrote:

You don't. Best is to leave the pins square, so they cut rather than
wedge
against the face grain. Sam principle as cut ends on a nail.

Since we're talking about a 1/32 - 1/16th offset between
the hole in the mortised piece and the hole in the tenon, and the
the tenon may be 1/2" thick, I don't think a wooden "nail"
cut end or not, will "cut" that much wood. And if it could,
if it's a through peg, it'd also "cut" the other side of the
mortise as well?

I suggested chamfering both the peg and the tenon's hole
to make drawing the joint easier - remember, we're
talking about a draw peg M&T joint and I had a through
draw pegged joint in mind. I made the chamferring
the hole suggestions based on splitting the end of a
walnut peg in a draw peg M&T joint on my work bench
base unit. Of course the tenons were 3/4" thick maple and
the mortise was in a 3x3 spruce leg - not your typical
M&T joint.

More info please as to peg cutting cross grain.

Principle is well-known. Round peg in round hole splits. Square edge,
breaks fiber to make passage.