Assuming the run and standby B+ are correct, ~140V, then the focus
divider is bad. Very common failure item on these sets, especially
after B+ had been running high due to the capacitor problems in the
power supply.

After the focus block is replaced, usually the crt socket should also
be replaced to remove the carbon tracing.

Very common, fixed lots of them with this issue.

David

wrote:
I think I am coming close to being able to do anything with nothing.

This is the second time I've had this paroblem: it arcs between the
two
focus pins. This socket is peculiar to their IDTVs, a bunch of the
Proscan line and a few regular CTC169s. Obviously a CRT socket
replacement was in order but there were none to be had. I was told to
do whatever it takes. This means almost unlimited resources, as long
as
it's done today. We can't wait for a socket or we risk the need to
refund.

When I need to be a hillbilly I try to be the best one I can.

After disassembling the socket and removing the electrodes I cleaned
the plastic with acetone. In one of the tunnels in which the focus
electrodes reside there is still a brown spot. As Alex Harvey said "I
flipped open a packet of cigarettes and considered the situation".

Removing all the material between the pins and replacing it would do
it, but there is no facility for that, nor is there time for anything
to dry overnight.

I always look for the safest, most effective, reliable and REVERSIBLE
modification possible.

I removed the pingrabbers from the socket assy, and had a good hard
look at them. I then decided to straighten the bend they put in it,
put
in my own to retract the grabber about 3 mm from where it used to be
in
relation to the plane of the socket. I then found some 16 ga. wire
with
thicker insulation (like the thicker yoke wires). I took just about
3mm
of insulation from that and put it on the CRT pin.

I felt the insulation engage the body of the socket when I
reinstalled
it. It kinda dropped when I got it really aligned. I checked and
there
was no gap between the pin protector and the socket. The "drop" was
about the same as the length of the insulation.

Set fired up and did not arc. I effectively moved the arcing points 3
mm away from each other.

In your opinion, did I come up with a solution or did I make a mess
waiting to happen ?

Thanks in advance.

JURB