Go to a marine store and get yourself some 2-part teak cleaner.
Regardless of the wood you use it on, it should help you out. It's a
acidic cleaner and a neutralizer.

Incidentally, I _used_ to be heavily into boating, had a
sportfisherman with a teak cockpit and cover boards that were
oiled/sealed. If I didn't strip the sealer off on a regular basis,
the teak would start turning streaky black underneath, and also show
spots. In all those years of killing myself with teak (and it does
look beautiful when done properly) I always wondered if it was a mold
spore that grew in the grain because I never, ever used steel anything
on that teak. Of course... a lot of fish blood was let in those
cockpits grin and maybe it had something to do with it. But the
coverboards were at least 24" higher than the cockpit, and most of the
bigger (100# and up) fish came in thru the transom door.

Incidentally, don't overdo the teak cleaner because acid treatment
will soften the "bung" of the wood and you'll wind up with very uneven
surfaces.

On Wed, 04 May 2005 02:37:46 GMT, pavel popovich wrote:

Thanks to all that replied. I believe, after talking futher with the
recipient of the chairs, that the problem was caused by steel wool. I
thought I got all of the steel dust off, but apparently not. That makes
much more sense than mold.

Any suggestions for removing these little pesky reminders of my mistake?

I preffer using oil to film finished because of past problems with
moisture getting under the finish. With oil, the owner of the chair can
decide to recoat every year (easier with oil) if they want, or just
letting it naturally age. This Penofin oil sounds pretty interesting.
I think I'll try that next.

Now, onto getting rid of the spots on Spotted White Oak Adirondack
chairs....

CC