On Fri, 29 Apr 2005 15:49:43 -0400, "Proctologically Violated©®"
wrote:

Awl--

Hopefully my last plumbing Q! Man, am I buried here!

I have previously screwed up sweating ball valves, and frankly don't see how
the teflon seals withstand the heat, even with "good technique", which mine
most likely is not, given the rare plumbing that I do.

So what I do is buy threaded ball valves, and separately sweat a suitable
length of copper pipe to copper adapters, screw those in to the threaded
valves, and continue sweating some safe "thermal distance" from sed ball
valve.
Sometimes I'll even use a union, depending...

Never heard of "just for copper"?
It's the cat's ass for assembling hard copper and brass fittings. No
heat required - goes on like crazy-glue and holds like a weld. Not gap
filling, so not recommended for soft copper tubing, but approved for
hot/cold water as well as oil and gas (natural, propane, or gasoline)

Am I bein a wus?? Is there a more reliable way to sweat ball valves?
I know there is some precedence for this, as I have seen sweat valves w/
removable flange-type ends, presumably for just this problem--but of course
they cost big(ger) $$.

In general, I sort of mix threaded w/ copper, like for caps: Instead of
sweating a cap to a tee, I'll first sweat an adapter, and then screw on a
threaded cap--makes subsequent connections easier, I think. I always found
sweating previously-wet copper "in line" a real pita.

Also, along the lines of ball valves, I noticed diff. 1/2 threaded valves
have diff IDs!
Gas ball valves have the smallest, but a nice thumb-handle. Can I use these
for water, as well?
Water ball valves have the longer handle, but even these have diff. IDs,
which I find surprising. Any idears on why? Just diff. mfrs?

A'ight, thanks! I hope this it, fer plumbing!!

----------------------
Mr. P.V.'d
formerly Droll Troll