On Fri, 29 Apr 2005 15:49:43 -0400, "Proctologically Violated©®"
wrote:
I have previously screwed up sweating ball valves, and frankly don't see how
the teflon seals withstand the heat, even with "good technique", which mine
most likely is not, given the rare plumbing that I do.
So what I do is buy threaded ball valves, and separately sweat a suitable
length of copper pipe to copper adapters, screw those in to the threaded
valves, and continue sweating some safe "thermal distance" from sed ball
valve.
Sometimes I'll even use a union, depending...
Am I bein a wus?? Is there a more reliable way to sweat ball valves?
I know there is some precedence for this, as I have seen sweat valves w/
removable flange-type ends, presumably for just this problem--but of course
they cost big(ger) $$.
I've never had a problem - but if it's bugging you, go to a
refrigeration house and get a tube of Calgon Thermo-Trap Heat Paste.
It's literally wheat and water paste in a tube, you coat the outside
body of the valve center and it'll soak up the excess heat while you
sweat the fitting ends. When you're done it brushes or hoses off.
Ball valves can take the heat, certain other fittings can't, which
is why they make the stuff.
In general, I sort of mix threaded w/ copper, like for caps: Instead of
sweating a cap to a tee, I'll first sweat an adapter, and then screw on a
threaded cap--makes subsequent connections easier, I think. I always found
sweating previously-wet copper "in line" a real pita.
Use the bread trick for wet pipes. Drain as much of the water as
you can, then take a half slice of bread (sans crust) and wad it into
a ball slightly larger than the pipe ID, and stuff it in a couple
inches. Then sweat your last fitting together. The bread will hold
back the residual water drops long enough to let you sweat the pipe,
then it'll liquefy and blow through the system when you turn the water
back on and flush it out.
They sell the little molded gelatin balls now for the same purpose,
but that's no fun at all.
Also, along the lines of ball valves, I noticed diff. 1/2 threaded valves
have diff IDs!
Gas ball valves have the smallest, but a nice thumb-handle. Can I use these
for water, as well?
Water ball valves have the longer handle, but even these have diff. IDs,
which I find surprising. Any idears on why? Just diff. mfrs?
Different makers, different uses, too. The ones with the big holes
are usually marked 'full port'. You want to go by the ratings, if
they're marked WOG it's 'Water Oil Gas', and they usually restrict
the stubby gas valves to gas only.
-- Bruce --
--
Bruce L. Bergman, Woodland Hills (Los Angeles) CA - Desktop
Electrician for Westend Electric - CA726700
5737 Kanan Rd. #359, Agoura CA 91301 (818) 889-9545
Spamtrapped address: Remove the python and the invalid, and use a net.
|