I watched my plumber install one. He used his Mapp torch and sweated the
ball valve like it was an ordinary fitting. I didn't see him do anything
unusual. When I did my own, I wrapped a damp rag around it, and also used
Mapp. If using propane, I think you have to heat it longer, and that makes
it more likely for the Teflon to be damaged.

"Proctologically Violated©®" wrote in message
...
Awl--

Hopefully my last plumbing Q! Man, am I buried here!

I have previously screwed up sweating ball valves, and frankly don't see
how the teflon seals withstand the heat, even with "good technique", which
mine most likely is not, given the rare plumbing that I do.

So what I do is buy threaded ball valves, and separately sweat a suitable
length of copper pipe to copper adapters, screw those in to the threaded
valves, and continue sweating some safe "thermal distance" from sed ball
valve.
Sometimes I'll even use a union, depending...

Am I bein a wus?? Is there a more reliable way to sweat ball valves?
I know there is some precedence for this, as I have seen sweat valves w/
removable flange-type ends, presumably for just this problem--but of
course they cost big(ger) $$.

In general, I sort of mix threaded w/ copper, like for caps: Instead of
sweating a cap to a tee, I'll first sweat an adapter, and then screw on a
threaded cap--makes subsequent connections easier, I think. I always
found sweating previously-wet copper "in line" a real pita.

Also, along the lines of ball valves, I noticed diff. 1/2 threaded valves
have diff IDs!
Gas ball valves have the smallest, but a nice thumb-handle. Can I use
these for water, as well?
Water ball valves have the longer handle, but even these have diff. IDs,
which I find surprising. Any idears on why? Just diff. mfrs?

A'ight, thanks! I hope this it, fer plumbing!!

----------------------
Mr. P.V.'d
formerly Droll Troll