Couple of tricks for U-Joints -- be very careful tapping the
bearing caps in -- you can dislodge the needles and it is a
real pain to try to get the cap back out without damage !
I have found that with a smooth jaw vise and care, I can
get the caps started and pressed without having to tap on
them, but it is very important to make sure it is lined up
when you press or they do jam.

This part is important -- Once you get the caps pressed in
and the clips on, put the U-joint assembly across an open
vise (or equiv. support) so the ends of the yoke are supported
and hit the end of the other yoke so the caps seat back against
the clips. This only moves it several thousands, but it makes
the difference between the ends of the spider rubbing in
the caps and not. Feel how the joint moves before and
after and you will see what I mean. Do that for each cap
in the joint. Makes a BIG difference in how long until
you change the joint again !!!

mikey

"Jon Danniken" wrote in message
...
wrote:
Hey,

Started putting a new u joint into that yoke and shaft and ran into a
proplem. I got one "cup" in but when I tried to put the opposite cup in
it wont go on straight and I have a terrible time. I am afraid this
might mean the hole is out of round or something but not sure. Is there
a way to get this in?

What is the best way to install a u joint?

Heh, I just did mine last week. Best way I found to start them was to tap
them lightly around the cap circumference with a hammer. When I tried
other
ways (using the vise or the nifty u-joint press I got from HF) they would
bind up by not being aligned axially with the hole.

By tapping them lightly with the hammer "around the horn", they found
their
way in without much effort at all. When they got inside of the yoke, then
I
used the press tool to push them in enough to get the circle clips in plac
e.

That was last week; this weekend I get to try and remove frozen bleeder
screws from my disc brake calipers; oh lucky me!

Jon