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Phil Addison
 
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sorry, bit cryptic comments, out of time.

On 28 Apr 2005 13:24:07 -0700, in uk.d-i-y wrote:

White spirit: aka turps substitute. Petroleum distillates. Slow to
evaporate. Dissolves un-set oil based (gloss) paints and uncured epoxy
resin.
Lifts dried on self adhesive labels: wet the label with it and wait a
few minutes, then peel off and wipe the residue away with a rag wetted
with white spirit.


Its also been said on here that warming with a hair dryer lifts these
labels

Acetone, aka nail varnish remover:

This is dangerous wording as it will encourage people to use it instead.
The remover *contains* acetone - not the same thing.

Lighter fluid:

Used by philatelists to make water marks on stamps visible.

Oils

and lubricants?

What about silicone grease as used for assembling rubbery things, and
compression polypipe fittings

Spray on silicone for lubricating curtain runners (and other plastic
moving parts)

3-in-1 oil - more of a penetrating oil

- metal scourers

You missed my stainless steel one. Its made by Spondex.

Under dishwasher detergent - add that it corrodes some steel cutlery,
makes glass go cloudy?

- metal balls:

aka ball bearings?

Chlorine bleach:

Is it bleach + toilet cleaners (the acid them) that generates HCN(?)
cyanide gas (or is it chlorine?), hence the warnings not to do it on the
containers. If so prob worth restating it here (as well as under
limescale).

Spray and wipe cleaners:
------------------------

Quick and easy hard surface cleaners.


Produce noxious fumes. Contain ammonia.


Really? never noticed that.

- Jizer -

and similar such as Hyperclean (Comma Oils)

The liquid runoff is toxic if eaten.

drunk surely. Ingested better.

- saliva: still the best cleaner for fine art oil paintings, but not
available in litre bottles


No its not. It might work, at your risk, but certainly not the best.

- Autoglym glass cleaner: one of the best commercial glass cleaner
preparations, but pricey.
From car accessory shops.


Eh? Autoglym is a cutting/polishing paste for restoring paintwork. An up
market t-cut.

- Silvo: converts tarnished silver back to silver.

Nope, that's the dip. Silvo and brasso are both abrasive cleaners.

Hartshorn powder: used to clean silver plate. Wipe a hartshorn and
water paste onto the silver, allow to dry, and brush off. Alcohol in
the paste will help to remove tarnish.


maybe that's what is in Silvo.

- caustic soda: strong alkali, cleans ovens, unblocks drains. Toxic,
irritant, can cause serious eye injury. One of the high risk cleaners,
follow instructions with care.
It is important to add crystals to water gradually, and never the other
way round. Use rubber gloves, plastic apron, goggles. Again proprietary
stuff with added 'cling' is probably more effective.


last sentence belongs elsewhere

- washing soda: degreases when used with boiling water. For clothes and
drain unblocking. The majority of drain blockages are mostly solidified
fat. Discolours aluminium.


*Dissolves* aluminium generating H2. Didn't you do the milk top in
washing soda experiment at school?

Milton - mild bleach used for sterilising baby's bottles etc


Steam...
Removes nicotine,

only from smooth surfaces as per my post. ie won't get it off your
fingers. don't try!

Stains:

act quickly before they set in

Blood:
- soak in biological washing powder in cold water (I think! not sure)

yes (probably). also if you just rinse it off before it dries it wont
stain in the first place.

Chewing gum on carpet:
- fill a bag with ice cubes, add a tablespoon of salt, and use the bag
to freeze the gum.
The gum will now break apart.


so if its on smaller items, put it in freezer?

Cup ring marks:
- clean with bio washing powder


Proprietary "ring-away" works well.

Grease marks:
- wipe/rub with paraffin or dry a cleaning solvent.
- wash with hot water and washing powder
- wash with boiling water and washing soda
- dishwashers are powerful degreasing machines for any items not
admaged by the heat or detergent.


put absorbent cloth over grease mark and warm with an iron. I think this
is standard advice for candle grease.

Paint, emulsion:


was once posted here that freezing hardens it then crumble off (as per
chew gum)

Glo-fuel for model aircraft: various different formulae exist,
containing methanol, oils, solvents such as ether, etc. Glo-fuel is
highly volatile, highly flammable, explosive, very toxic, narcotic,
containes ether which is an early and rather risky general anaesthetic
from the Victorian era, and the fumes can be fatal. A powerful solvent,


for what?

but the negative outcomes may somewhat outweigh the benefits.


****:

Do we have to use the vernacular?



Phil
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