These things are pretty bullet proof, don't toss it unless you can see
the smoke coming out!

One question up front: does this unit have a crank hooked up to screw
that moves a (shunt) into the main core or does this unit have a 10
position heavy duty switch that selects the heat?

Since you have the case off, follow the main power leads into the
machine, both sides go to a switch, then to the core with some light
weight leads to the fan. Since the fan runs, you probably have voltage
to the core. Does the core buzz when you turn it on?

turn it on, check the voltage at the welding leads inside the cabinet.
You should have about 55 volts between the ground lead and the high
power stinger lead, 80 volts between the ground and the lo power lead,
and 25 (or 28) volts between the high power and low power stinger
terminals.

If that checks out ok, you have a bad lead or connection on your cables.
With an old unit, this is the most likely problem. Make sure you have
solid clamps where the cable goes into both the plugs, the stinger, and
the ground clamp.

Cheers.

Jake in Escondido wrote:
I have an old Sears Craftsman 30-230 Dual Range arc welder that I have
had for over 20 years. It has had pretty light use, but has been a life
saver when I needed it.

Lately it has been difficulty to strike an arc. Saturday it just gave up
the ghost. Regardless of where I set it or what range I use, it won’t
strike an arc. I opened it up and everything seems to look OK. There is
no smoky smell of anything burnt. The fan works. I ran a VOM over
various locations. They all seemed to produce a range of voltages from
28-220 volts depending on where I placed the leads.

I do not have a schematic and I am not much of an electrical whiz, but I
sure hate to toss the thing in the trash. Anybody have an idea of what
might be wrong and how I might get it fixed?

I wonder if Sears still does the lifetime Craftsman warranty? ;^)

TIA

Jake in Escondido