Better to over-engineer then under!

I was looking at metal (over engineering) cleats (my uppers are also
5/8th's"). The only real problem I see without cleats is the struggle to
hold and screw and align the cabinet. With just more pre-prep., the metal
cleats interlock so without any screwing they'll be very secure to the wall.
The current dilemma is the Metal cleats come in 18" length which your wood
design eliminates! If I can find 5' or 10' lengths of the steel cleats, I'll
probably go that way if not, I'll look at using wood as you have and save a
bundle.

Thanks, Joe



"Wyatt" wrote in message
oups.com...
I installed uppers a couple of months ago. I ran cleats on the two
walls that took the cabs using strips of baltic birch. I did this
because it made installation much easier and ensured that they would
all be on the same plane.

My uppers have 1/2" plywood backs and are screwed directly into 2x4
blocking in the wall. I had this room down to the studs, so I took the
opportunity to run blocking between each stud. I used 3" drywall
screws to attach them, but since the screws will be visible when the
doors are open, I'm going to find some decorative screws to replace
them with. Shims were used to make everything plumb before driving the
screws home.

My cabs have cherry face frames. Before I install the base cabs, I
will remove the baltic birch cleats and replace them with strips of
cherry to match the look of the face frame. I feel comfortable with
the cabs screwed to the wall, but I tend to over engineer everything.
The cherry cleats will provide additional support and will actually
improve the look - IMHO.



.HMFIC@1369 wrote:
I'm almost all done making my kitchen cabinets. I was going to just
screw
'em on. Until I saw wall cleats? They look OK! but I didn't resess
the rear
panel (flush) and the 7/16's sticking out kinda bothers me (not a
real great
issue concerning that one, but....)

What else can anyone recommend?

TIA Joe