Well, try to avoid 1/4-20!
Also they make, I believe, "welding nuts", w/ more meat on the outside.
But, a 3/8 nut should give you no trouble.

Ahm no 'spert, but I just spring or c-clamp it in place, use a thin rod,
3/32 at 70-100 A (I think), and weld away, starting on the hex corners.
Don't need a solid weld all around, just 3 or so solid spots.
Actually, watch out you don't burn thru the tube wall, as well. Practice on
scrap a little.
Oh, big tip:
On small nuts in particular, weld them w/ a screw threaded in, for heat
disipation/warpage. On 3/8, may not be so critical, but couldn't hurt,
f'sure.

I've done this successfully w/ 1/4-20.

You may wind up w/ a welding table up around yer chin!!
I really became surprised at how high I like tables and tools.
----------------------------
Mr. P.V.'d
formerly Droll Troll
"carl mciver" wrote in message
link.net...
"Proctologically Violated©®" wrote in message
...
| Why not make the legs temporarily telescoping, so's you can experiment
over
| a month or two?
| When you've settled on a height, jest weld the **** out of the
telescoping
| member, for rigidity.
| Or just redo the legs, if you must.
| Or, keep it telescoping, and just make really good locks, mebbe set
screws
| for rattle, and thru-pins for strength.
| But I think you'll like higher better than lower.
| The "elbow suggestion" seems to me to be a really good, uh, benchmark.

| ----------------------------
| Mr. P.V.'d
| formerly Droll Troll

Ah, very good idea. The thru pins I will be using a lot elsewhere, but
a set screw in conjunction sounds excellent. Welding a nut on the outside
for a set screw is a great idea, but that reminds me of the question that
came up the other day: Concerning welding nuts on, what is the best way
to
get it square, not cook off the threads or otherwise damage the nut, and
get
it exactly where you need it to be? Working with stick here. Last time I
did one with a torch it turned out to be a royal PITA.