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Palindr˜»me
 
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DaveC wrote:
On Sun, 24 Apr 2005 13:17:02 -0700, Phil Scott wrote
(in article ):


those are specially rated terminals and wire ... a first rate
appliance repair shop would have them and might sell you a
few..



Can't use anything off-the-shelf?


otherwise search google.



Have.


brass and copper wont work unless plated, ni chrome or silver
usually. the insulation is special also



Don't need more nichrome or supply wire; there's enough slack to make it
work. Just need a means for connecting these together through the mica (?)
composite backing board.

I would probably use a plated crimp sleeve. Overlap the two
wires through the whole crimp sleeve - which should be small
enough diameter to just take the wires. Double crimp the
sleeve onto the wires. Remove any plastic insulation from
the crimp sleeve, if fitted, before use.

Make sure that the heater wire and the connecting wire are
mechanically supported, so that if the heater wire breaks,
everything will stay in place.

Try to keep the splice (and the connecting wire) away from
any heat, direct or radiated. The connecting wire should
have a high temperature (eg glass fibre) outer sleeve.

Usually caveats about this repair is potentially lethal -
particularly as toasters are usually used in kitchens where
there is water, lots of good earths and a good chance of
killing someone if you do a bad job.

The mechanically supporting both wires is *vital* - it means
that, if the heater wire fails, the connecting wire and
connector will not flail about and maybe touch exposed
metalwork or form a circuit via damp bread from the freezer,
someone's fingers - then through to their other hand resting
on the cooker or sink..

--

Sue





--

Sue