I'd guess the saw is worth some time. You've done the hard stuff
already.

Just guessing- someone will tell me if I am wrong- but you might be
able to true up that arbor flange with a few well placed delicate
hammer blows. It was probably a press fit, originally.

If you once get it flat, so somthing to keep it that way. Weld?
Epoxy? Hell, maybe a drop a CA glue would even help.
~~~~~
I'm not advocating this, don't try it, but..... nah, you better not.
Run the motor and lay a file or flatstone on the flange face. Nah,
too dangerous. But you might true things up some that way.
~~~~~
I'm a little confused about the runout jumping so much from the flange
to the blade. Sounds like a lot. How is the shaft? try rotating the
blade to a few positions before tightening it. Might be some bad
spotts on the flange will cancel some blade porblems.

Can you borrow a different blade to try it?

Not sure you can go the lathe route with a universal type motor.

good luck with it!


-Dan V.

On 18 Apr 2005 14:19:17 -0700, (John
Antoszek) wrote:

I got a free Delta 34-740C tablesaw (gloat, or maybe not). It had sat
outside over a southern Ontario Canada winter. The top was rusty but
a little sanding and some Topcoat got things sliding again. I had to
replace the plug too as previous owner had cut the ground pin off.

After a lot of oiling and greasing, I got a new blade (Oldham 60 tooth
finishing) installed and did a few test cuts. I couldn't get a nice
clean rip (wrong blade?). After I hit google and the newsgroup, I got
myself a dial indicator. Runout on the blade just below the teeth was
0.038. Runout on the arbor flange was 0.005. I found the high spot
on the arbor flange and did some sanding. I stopped after I got it
down to 0.004 and put the blade back on. Blade runout was down to
0.029 - still not good but a step in the right direction.

Before I go back to sanding I'd like to ask a couple of questions.
I've read that the proper way to address this problem is the remove
the motor, strip out the arbor , and have the flange fixed on a lathe
(BTW, this saw is direct drive). Can I expect that my sanding will
ever get the flange down to 0.001? Is hand sanding the flange
dangerous?

While I was sanding, I noticed that the arbor flange was not tightly
fixed to the motor shaft. I didn't notice any play in the motor
shaft. I couldn't move the flange in or out but I could, however, turn
it side-to-side (I'd say less than a 16th of an inch, just enough to
notice). I don't know how the shaft and flange are assembled - press
on, welded? With the blade installed everything feels tight and
secure but I wonder if this thing is safe. Any thoughts would be
appreciated.