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Harold and Susan Vordos
 
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"Ernie Leimkuhler" wrote in message
...
In article , Harold and Susan Vordos
wrote:

"Ernie Leimkuhler" wrote in message
...
In article , Harold and Susan Vordos
wrote:

"Don Foreman" wrote in message
...
snip----

They aren't expensive; the Weldcraft WP-25 might be a good

choice at
a bit over $100. You don't need a full-blown water cooler, just

a
pump and a bucket. You can get a refurbished ProCon coolant

pump
for $118:

I have always used a hookup to our culinary water for my torch, and

run
the
small amount of water involved to waste. It works fine and

eliminates
the
need for a pump and cooling unit. May not be good for everyone,

but
it
works for me.

Harold



As long as you run a filter on the line.
Otherwise you can get a buildup in the torchhead.

It is what I have been doing for 12 years.


Good point, and I thank you for the tip. I didn't have a filter when I
resided in Utah, but our water system here is filtered, so I'm likely in
pretty good shape.

When I built the shop I installed a water hookup at the welding station,
plus a discharge line that goes to our rain catch basin. Everything is
concealed in the wall, so it's a clean setup. Interestingly, I've

never
assembled the system, but I'm in process right now---I have to weld some
stainless pipe to steel pipe, plus attach some mounting brackets. I'm
putting a couple antennas on the roof of the new house we're building,

and
they're being mounted to the reinforced trusses instead of surface

mounting
them. That will eliminate the need for guy wires and multiple holes in

the
roof. I don't want any leaks to deal with in the future.

The stainless portion of the 1-1/2" pipe will be above the roof, with

the
steel pipe in the attic space, where a little rust makes no difference.

The
pipe in the attic runs from the top to bottom chord of the trusses,

which
have been braced to prevent any movement. The antenna masts will be

mounted
by bolts, not nailed. I intend to TIG, with 308 filler for the

dissimilar
metal connection, and 70S 2 for the all steel connections. If you

see
any problems with my plan, I'd appreciate some guidance.

Harold



Get some 309L for the dissimilar metals joints.
It works much better for such things.


Thanks, Ernie. I'll check with the two suppliers in "the big city" on
Tuesday for some 309L..

Harold