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wrote:

wrote:

The stump end often flips backwards if youre pulling it over with a
rope. Even the thinner branches can cause serious injury, stay out the
way.

Surely if cut properly with a notch on the falling side about 1/3 of
the way through and then a cut on the other side about 2" above the
notch this should form a hinge as the tree falls.

All the one's we have felled I've done this way and mostly the rope
was just a bit of insurance to be sure the tree didn't go the wrong
way, it wasn't used to actually pull the tree over.

IF teh hinge gives way completely the tree will rotate about its CG
-that flicks the stump up, backwards and then down.

That's why its easier to stop before the hnge breaks, and use a rope
from well clear.

If you are experienced, you know when to get out of teh eay (sidewqys)
If not, pull the ******* over.

When sawing the cut on the other side above the notch it's very
obvious when the tree is about to fall and you have ample time to get
out of the way. This is the way it's described in all the information
I've read about it. The one big thing they all emphasise is that you
*must* make sure you can move quickly away from the tree once it
starts falling.

It is to someone who has done it a few times. Not to an out and out newbie.

Relying on pulling the tree over after you've moved away from it is
risky as it *might* decide to fall while you're cutting and, if you
haven't a well planned and easy escape route, you're in trouble.

No, it won't. You simply try it again and agaimn, cutting a little more
- till it takes HUGE heave and JUST snaps.