As MikeG mentioned earlier, it is really easy to use the arbors built-in
flat spots to hold the arbor while loosening the blade nut with a second
wrench. In this way, the blade can be removed whether it is in a raised or
lowered position. The wrench needed for this is usually a simple stamped
steel bar that with parallel tines at one end that slip over the flat spots.
Mine did not come from Grizzly, but rather from an old Craftsman RAS.

As I understand it, the arbor threads have be cut so that the nut will
tighten was the blade is used. For that reason, one just has to snug up the
nut and washer rather that really bearing down on the wrench. While I have
the 1023S rather than the 1023SL, I've never had a blade nut come loose nor
one struck fast to the arbor. Finally, since the arbor is located to the
rear of the saw table, it seems much easier to change blades by standing on
the outfeed side of the unit. One can look right down on the arbor and
there is less reaching.


"loutent" wrote in message
...
Hi Ron,

I started using the "Blade-Loc" gizmo a couple
of months ago - even before I got my 1023SL.
About $15 IIRC.

It works fine except that you do have to raise the blade
into it before it grabs, but since I started buying
these fancy, expensive blades I figured that I did not
want to chance chipping the carbide.

Standing at the operators side, pull the wrench toward
yourself (i.e. left as you are facing the arbor) with your
right hand as you hold the Blade-Loc down on the table with
your left hand.

I change blades quite often & have not noticed anything
peculiar.

Great saw!

Lou

In article , Ron Truitt
wrote:

I have recently been putting my Grizz to work after buying it in
December.

I was looking to change the blade and used the enclosed wrench to try to
remove the nut holding it on so I could get the blade off.

I had installed the blade in December when assembling the saw and put a
light coat of oil on the large nut that holds the blade collar on the
arbor.

I looked through the owne's manual but did not see anything mentioned to
use to change blades other than the wrench mentioned above.

While slightly turning the nut I noticed I was also turning something
else on the arbor on the other side of the blade.

Is there some secret to getting the #@%^& blade off the arbor? I
changed blades many times on my old saw and never had a problem.

Is there some sort of gizmo that would make it easier?

Thanks,

RonT