"Christian McArdle" wrote in message
. net...
I am currently installing my kitchen. It is a Edwardian terrace (i.e.
looks
Victorian). Unusually, the floor construction is suspended wooden on the
same level as the principal rooms. This is bad, because I want a slate
floor, which (to my mind) implies some sort of heating to take the edge
off
the cold floor. (Space heating by radiators).

So, what is the minimum thickness I could make a slate floor complete with
underfloor heating, so I don't get too much of a step up from the back
room?
The floorboards are currently layed with hardboard. It took me ten minutes
to remove a square 25cm by 25cm, it is so well affixed. I don't fancy
removing any more of it.

Alternatively, should I bite the bullet, go for a substantial step up and
install wet underfloor and insulation to replace the radiators?

Christian.



We've got exactly the same arrangement - don't know whether the suspended
wooden floor was put in when the house was renovated about 16 years ago, but
it's the same level as rest of house. Come to think of it, some of the
neighbours might have a step down to the kitchen. I'll have a look next
time I',m round there.

Anyway, previous occupant of the house had ceramic tiles put in - think
they're also laid on top of hardboard and then floorboards.

Problem is that they have cracked right across the room in a couple of
places, due to slight deflection of the underlying floor, I think.

Therefore if I was replacing the floor (and we'd thought about slate) then
I'd want to take the lot up and stick some particularly meaty, flat external
WBP ply down, fix down firmly and then lay on top of that. I'd also want to
make damned sure that the ventilation was chipper, and the joists & flooring
treated first - if you get dry rot in that lot then you're buggered as you
can't get access to sort it out.

Don't know about UFH. Our floor isn't that cold - the really cold ones are
solid concrete floors, IMHO.

Of course you could bit the bullet & replace with a well insulated insulated
concrete floor, and the whole wet UFH enchilada. Don't know whether it's
feasible to do that and leave a 1ft (covered) channel all the way around for
routing pipework, cables and to maintain ventilation?

cheers
Richard
--
Richard Sampson

email me at
richard at olifant d-ot co do-t uk