Don sez:
" Not the same stuff, Bob. The RadioShack stuff is 62 Pb36Sn2Ag.
Staybrite is about 96Sn4Ag. It's considerably stronger than
lead-based solder like the Radio Shack stuff. I did misremember,
though; it's more like 14,000 PSI, not 24,000 PSI. Still
considerably better than 64Pb36Sn which is about 5000 PSI. I used
it last week to repair a decorator light fixture made of very thin
sheet steel, this for my daughter-in-law who was delighted to have
that old pieca-- uh, piece restored."
If this is true, then RatShack is lying on the product descriptions on their
packaging.
The latest silver-bearing solder I purchased from RS says on the package:
64-026 E, Silver-Bearing Solder, Lead Free, 96/4. The sales type said that
the 96/4 referred to the percentage of tin and silver. It comes in a 0.5
ounce tube.
I have a much older package of Silver-Bearing Solder from RS, maybe about 10
years old, packaged in a blister pac with a small roll of material inside,
0.46 ounce. It says on the front: Kester Solder, Silver Solder, Alloy 4%
Silver 96% Tin, High Strength For jewelry, Antique Silver, Melting
Temperature 440 F, Special Flux Core Included.
Bob Swinney
"Don Foreman" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 6 Apr 2005 13:02:43 -0500, "Robert Swinney"
wrote:
FWIW - silver-bearing solder is available at Radio Shack. You might want
to
try there rather than purchase a larger quantity as it is normally sold
through welding supply sources. It comes as a "cored" solder similar to
soft solder with contained flux. IMO, the flux core is not good unless
you
use some other agent for cleaning prior to soldering. AFAK, the shack
doesn't handle recommended special flux such as Harris StayClean. It is
available in 4 ounce quantities through welding supply places.
Incidentally, silver-bearing solder appears to be about the same stuff
jewelers use. I recently "sized" an old ring by cutting it open and
soldering in a small piece of similar material (14k gold) from a junk
piece
of jewelry.
OTOH, silver-bearing solder is fairly strong. For a test, I sawed open a
brass tube and then silver-soldered it back together in a butt joint
configuration, preserving the internal contour of the tube. Then many
passes were made in the lathe, taking the tube down well below original
diameter. The silver-soldered joint held up with no problems taking
fairly
light cuts. The joint appeared to be nearly as strong as the native
brass.
The silver-bearing lead-free plumbing solder sold at Home Depot is
probably much closer to Staybrite, probably being mostly tin. I
don't think it wets as well as Staybrite.
There is a Staybrite 8 with higher silver content that has a plastic
range so it can "build" a little in loose fitups. I haven't used it.
The Radio Shack stuff is handy in that it's small -- .022 dia.
Staybrite can be made into thin ribbon with a hammer. Welding
stores do sell small quantities of it in blister packs that include
a little bottle of flux.
"Don Foreman" wrote in message
. ..
On 6 Apr 2005 08:58:16 -0700, "Joatman71" wrote:
I want to make 1/64 scale models of construction equipment. I have
looked at using brass and soldering it together, but it doesn't stick
together well. I can break it apart at the solder joint. Is this
normal or is it my soldering skills? I also want to lay a bead of
solder along a 2" joint and then grind it smooth. Is this possible?
Should I braze it instead of soldering it?
I have thought about using sheet metal and a mig welder instead. Will
this work with very small parts and thin metal?
MIG is not the answer here.
Get some Harris Staybrite silver-bearing solder. It works just a
little above usual soldering temperatures, and it sticks very well to
brass, also to steel and stainless. You can use a small torch, a
soldering gun or a soldering iron. Strength is about 24,000 PSI
IIRC. It's not as strong as a braze or weld, but it's considerably
stronger than ordinary lead-tin solder -- and it is very easy to use.
For flux, use Harris Staykleen, or ordinary tinner's fluid.
You don't "lay a bead" with this material. It wets and flows like
water when it melts. It will "follow the heat". If you want a
bead, lay brass wire or narrow strip where you want the bead and
solder it in place.
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