Ignoramus21451 wrote:

What kind of volts and amps should one use for EDR?

Can you describe the process a bit?


http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/ru..._derusting.htm
http://antique-engines.com/electrol.asp
http://www-2.cs.cmu.edu/~alf/en/electrolysis.txt
http://www.woodmangler.com/Derusting...derusting.html
http://www.metalwebnews.com/howto/rust/rust.html

I used an old plastic bucket, Arm & Hammer washing soda from Safeway (about
1/4 cup in a gallon), and a piece of old square steel tubing for the anode. I
sanded a spot clean on the outside corner of the square tube and drilled a
hole near the end, and threaded some stranded copper wire (stripped, of course)
through and twisted it tightly. I set the tube on a piece of PVC so the top
of the steel was just above the surface of the liquid, with the copper wire
(insulated, of course) hanging up over the top of the bucket. I attached another
copper wire to the steel caster to be derusted. I drilled a small hole in a flat
stick and ran the wire from the caster through the small hole, and put a clamp
on the upper side, then layed the stick over the bucket and arranged it so the
caster hung inside the steel anode without touching it, connected a small
automotive battery charger (red to anode, black to part, connection is critical)
and plugged it in. Six hours later I unplugged the charger, removed the part
(wire still attached) and ran very hot water over it while hitting it lightly
with a maroon 3M pad. Lots of black came off, and underneath - voila - no rust.
Except on the caster as my previous post indicated. Now I'm repeating the
test this time with the wire attached to the wheel instead of the caster stem.

GWE