FWIW - silver-bearing solder is available at Radio Shack. You might want to
try there rather than purchase a larger quantity as it is normally sold
through welding supply sources. It comes as a "cored" solder similar to
soft solder with contained flux. IMO, the flux core is not good unless you
use some other agent for cleaning prior to soldering. AFAK, the shack
doesn't handle recommended special flux such as Harris StayClean. It is
available in 4 ounce quantities through welding supply places.
Incidentally, silver-bearing solder appears to be about the same stuff
jewelers use. I recently "sized" an old ring by cutting it open and
soldering in a small piece of similar material (14k gold) from a junk piece
of jewelry.
OTOH, silver-bearing solder is fairly strong. For a test, I sawed open a
brass tube and then silver-soldered it back together in a butt joint
configuration, preserving the internal contour of the tube. Then many
passes were made in the lathe, taking the tube down well below original
diameter. The silver-soldered joint held up with no problems taking fairly
light cuts. The joint appeared to be nearly as strong as the native brass.
Bob Swinney
"Don Foreman" wrote in message
...
On 6 Apr 2005 08:58:16 -0700, "Joatman71" wrote:
I want to make 1/64 scale models of construction equipment. I have
looked at using brass and soldering it together, but it doesn't stick
together well. I can break it apart at the solder joint. Is this
normal or is it my soldering skills? I also want to lay a bead of
solder along a 2" joint and then grind it smooth. Is this possible?
Should I braze it instead of soldering it?
I have thought about using sheet metal and a mig welder instead. Will
this work with very small parts and thin metal?
MIG is not the answer here.
Get some Harris Staybrite silver-bearing solder. It works just a
little above usual soldering temperatures, and it sticks very well to
brass, also to steel and stainless. You can use a small torch, a
soldering gun or a soldering iron. Strength is about 24,000 PSI
IIRC. It's not as strong as a braze or weld, but it's considerably
stronger than ordinary lead-tin solder -- and it is very easy to use.
For flux, use Harris Staykleen, or ordinary tinner's fluid.
You don't "lay a bead" with this material. It wets and flows like
water when it melts. It will "follow the heat". If you want a
bead, lay brass wire or narrow strip where you want the bead and
solder it in place.
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