Phil wrote:
Hi all,

We've just discovered some dry rot in the house whilst renovating the
en-suite (ground floor, in the extension, with a flat fibreglass
roof). We've knocked off
all the plaster and render from the block walls and plan to treat them
with some
cuprinol dry rot stuff, and we're replacing all the wood from the
room. However, when we took down the ceiling plasterboard, we found
that the rot had touched the ends of two of the joists (about 60cm
worth, from ends towards the middle).

As we've not long purchased the house, cash is kind of tight - we've
got access to
some acro-props if need be - can anyone recommend what the best thing
to do here is? We're edging towards splicing in two new joist ends.

Cheers

Phil


Phil,

In my experience, there is only ONE way to treat *true* dry rot - and that
is to be drastic.

Very briefly:

Remove and replace ALL timber within the infection area and upto 3 feet
(1metre) away from the last signs of the infection and burn it - even if its
not showing signs of dry rot.

Hack off ALL the render and plaster within the area stated above and dispose
of it carefully (try not to drop it around the house).

Properly treat ALL the wall on the exposed parts with the correct chemical
solution.
Treat ALL new timber again with the proper solution.
Mix a dry rot killer with the render and then re-render the exposed walls.
Ensure that all ventillation grills are open to ensure a good airflow.

Bear in mind that *true* dry-rot fungus will spread through brickwork,
stonework, render etc to infect timber far from the original site if not
treated properly.

Again, in my experience, if the infection is fairly serious, I would advise
that you contact a specialist firm to carry out the chemical kill procedure
for you, as they have the expertise to do the job properly and will usually
give a guarantee on the work they have done - the added bonus is that the
will correctly identify the rot.

With regards to my statement of *true* dry rot - there is wet-rot fungus
that looks similar to dry rot and the simple cure for this is just to
eradicate the incoming moisture and the job is done - after replacing the
rotten timber.

As a matter of interest, I have seen new floors and windows replaced in a
house where the dry rot had not been properly treated, and these lasted all
of two years before needing to be done again - it was expensive as the rot
had progressed to other areas as well.

Hope this helps.

Brian G