"Steve Knight" wrote in message
...

I have experienced 'shiny' output from my planer and noticed, that
unless I scuffed it with 220 grit, the sealer coat simply wouldn't soak
in as well. I noticed this on a solid cherry toe-kick where the
'out-of-sight' side behaved quite differently through the finishing
stages causing me to experiment.

I have also sanded walnut burl progressively to 4000 grit, which also
became pleasantly 'shiny' and the finish soaked in quite well.

myself I don't use the wood right off the planer or jointer. but I have
sanded
the wood to very fine grits and it finish fine. I glue up the wood all the
time
right from the jointer without issues.

--

Heat is the issue. A board beaten into burnished condition by dull blades
or sanded unto ridiculous grits under power can turn back oil finishes. One
of the benefits of setting with water before final sanding - by hand - is
that it helps break this "case-hardening." Most glues are water-based to
some degree, so the benefits should extend to an edge produced by a
moderately dull jointer.