View Single Post
  #32   Report Post  
Luigi Zanasi
 
Posts: n/a
Default

On Fri, 25 Mar 2005 05:18:59 GMT, Unquestionably Confused
scribbled:

Brian Elfert wrote:

snip
I don't need strong walls for my RV. I just need walls that can hold
wiring and insulation along with holding up cabinets.


Your solution has already been posted, Brian. Take your choice:
Transition to wood studs where the cabinets will be hung or, and this I
think is the winner, use the 2"x6" notched to backup the steel studs.

As for the strength, the metal studs which I've seen installed used
construction adhesive AND screws to fasten the wallboard. Think torsion
box when that job's done.


Brian, the mention of torsion boxes gave me an idea that you might
consider. When I was rebuilding the front of my camper I ended up
creating a torsion box for the floor. (see:
http://groups.google.ca/groups?hl=en...jacq%404ax.com

Essentially milled 1"X1" (real dimension, not 3/4") cedar on 1-foot
squares grid with 1/8" plywood glued on each side. It is more than
sufficient to hold up my weight (250lb) on a 4'X7' floor.

I don't know what the shear strength would be of this kind of
construction, but note that the cupboards on my camper (late 70's) are
screwed into a wall made with 3/4" lumber and they haven't moved
despite having been used mostly on very rough Yukon backroads. I'll
let you do the weight calculations to compare it with steel studs. You
might have to make the wall thicker for the lecktrical stuff.

Just an idea, but it brings the whole thing back to wooddorking.

Luigi
Replace "nonet" with "yukonomics" for real email address
www.yukonomics.ca/wooddorking/humour.html
www.yukonomics.ca/wooddorking/antifaq.html