Ther was an article in Fine wood working a few years ago that had a 4 step
process. I think the article was named something like "Pop the grain in
Curly maple". Anyway it had you apply a brown dye (water base), Sand it
down to remove most stain ( it remains in the curl). Stain it again with a
lighter stain. Apply an oil finish ( really brings out the grain). When
oil dry apply a 2# cut of dewaxed shellac to seal. FInish with whatever you
like ( varnish, laquer, et al).

"onoahimahi" wrote in message
oups.com...
Hi,

I just finished small cabinet made of nice curly maple for my wife and
she wants me to stain it. I picked up a bottle of Transtint dye stain
that I am mixing with denatured alcohol. I'm trying the stain with
scrap pieces of the curly maple to check the color. I found that when I
apply the stain to wood that has not been sanded, I get a beautiful
curly effect - it actually amplifies the curl for this case where I
have not sanded the wood. In this case, I can still "feel" the curl
on the wood's surface and the stain accents the low points. However,
when I apply the stain to a piece of wood that has been sanded to match
the cabinet (240 grit), the curl is not coming through very strongly.
It seems to be attenuated (possibly) over the unstained case.

Any suggestions on how to stain curly maple and have the strong curly
effect come through? Would it help to mix the Transtint with water
instead of the "non-grain-raising" alcohol?

Thanks,
Scott