On Fri, 18 Mar 2005 14:16:42 -0500, "Patrick Bitton"
wrote:

I see your point. BUT, since I am ripping out the old cabinets, I can check
for plumb and level. And if it isn't to my liking...I will make them plumb
and level to make the cabinets fit perfectly. I personally think that making
a floor level and walls plumb is a much easier task then to butcher the
cabinets so they can fit.

[snip mastercharge commercial]

BTW, I'm a carpenter so it will not be a hard task for me to make my walls
square and my floor level. Basically the kitchen will probably have to be
gutted out. Besides, I want to make this a headache proof as possible. And
if that involves tearing down all the walls...so be it.

I'm not talking about plumb walls and level floors. I'm talking about
the vertical corner which I already assume is plumb and square until
the drywall taper gets to it.

What I'm saying is that the plane of the wall, which is otherwise
straight for 98% of its length, even when meeting another wall, which
is also otherwise straight for 98% of its length, will have drywall
compound buildup from six to twelve inches of the corner which makes
it (the six to twelve inches of wall) stand proud of the surrounding
wall.

Take one of your 4' levels and using it as a straightedge put it
horizontally against the wall with the end approximately one foot away
from the corner of the intersecting wall. As good a carpenter as you
are, the straightedge should be laying flat on the drywall its whole
length. Now slide the straightedge into the corner until the end hits
the intersecting wall. There will be a gap between the wall and the
straightedge somewhere around 8" from the corner. Not your fault; it's
the drywall guy. Not his fault; its the nature of the drywall beast.

You shouldn't even be able to get your framing square into the corner
and have both legs hit the intersecting walls for the same reason.


--
LRod

Master Woodbutcher and seasoned termite

Shamelessly whoring my website since 1999

http://www.woodbutcher.net