I've made a fern table before which meets this desciption.
Angled tennons are tough. My preference is to angle the mortise.
I assume the table on your drill press tilts.
I have a dedicated mortiser and a mortise attachment for my saw which makes
either significantly easier. The mortise attachment is a Shop Fox which
sells for around $60. You'll want one of these to do the angled tenons.
Mark

"Mark Nudelman" wrote in message
...
I'm making some plant stands which will have legs splayed out at 7.5
degrees
from vertical. There are two sets of horizontal rails joined to the legs
by
mortise and tenon joints. (Each set of rails is an "X" shape, so
diagonally
opposite pairs of legs are joined by a rail, and the two rails intersect.)
Normally when I make (non angled) mortise and tenon joints I cut the tenon
shoulders on the table saw, then the cheeks with a tenoning jig on the
table
saw. The mortises are cut with a mortising attachment on my drill press.
Obviously all these steps need to be modified to cut the angled mortises
and
tenons for this project. The obvious approach seems to be to cut the long
shoulders with a miter gauge set at 7.5 degrees, and the short ones with
the
saw blade tilted at 7.5 degrees. The cheeks are a bit trickier -- I guess
I
need a jig to hold the rail at 7.5 degrees from vertical on my tenoning
jig.
And then another jig to hold the legs at 7.5 degress from horizontal on
the
drill press table to cut the mortises.

Does this sound like the right approach, or is there an easier way to do
this?

Thanks for your advice.

--Mark