- before even dry fitting, check that all the parts
that are suppose to have square ends actually
have square ends

- check that all parts that are supposed to be the
same length are in fact the same length.

- mark the parts so you know which face is "up"
and which edge is the "front"

- if there are multiples use the triangle marking
method to identify which ones on top, which one
is in the middle and which one goes on the bottom.

- when ever possible, make all measurements off
on end and one reference edge.

- ALWAYS MARK THE WASTE SIDE
- ALWAYS MARK THE WASTE SIDE
- ALWAYS MARK THE WASTE SIDE
- ALWAYS MARK THE WASTE SIDE
- ALWAYS MARK THE WASTE SIDE
- ALWAYS MARK THE WASTE SIDE
- ALWAYS MARK THE WASTE SIDE
- ALWAYS MARK THE WASTE SIDE!!!!

- ALWAYS CUT ON THE WASTE SIDE!

- put a slight chamfer on the edges of parts that are
going into dadoes (except on the last 1/8" up front
where it'll show. couple of passes with 120 grit
will do. avoids splitting and crunching on snug fits

- if you want to avoid splintering on the good face
of ply, set the blade 1/16th or so above the table
and feed the sheet, good face down, from the back of
the saw to score it. Then raise the blade and feed
in the normal direction to finish the cut.

- make a bunch of 6 x6 mdf corner blocks with 2 holes
for clamps. makes holding things square while
putting things together during glue up a lot easier

- affer glue up but before glue dries check for square
and adjust clamps accordingly then check again.

- keep glue off your hands because it'll leap off
later onto the middle of the birdseye panel you
just put in between the rails and the stiles.

- waxilit where you don't want glue then wipe it off
with alcohol before finishing saves a lot of glue
scraping and that little patch you didn't see 'til the
finish went on and salmon colored spots start
appearing

- MARK THE WASTE SIDE

- CUT ON THE WASTE SIDE

- did I mention MARK THE WASTE SIDE? What
about CUT ON THE WASTE SIDE!

(and those are just my major F**K UPS.)

charlie b