In article , Jerry Foster
says...

Another alternative: Learn to use the lantern style toolpost (in other
words, learn to grind tools for it). I have an old Logan which came with
(most of) a lantern post as well as a newer style tool holder. I got the
missing pieces and find that I use the lantern post almost exclusively. The
reason I prefer it is that I have much better control over the cut. The
newer style posts are, of course, superior if you want to run tools with
replacable carbide inserts. But the problem with them is that the cutting
forces tend to be a lot higher and the older machines tend not to have the
power or rigidity to get good results. I find that the only time I use
carbide is for cutting stainless, but I don't do that very often. I run
mostly aluminum and a carefully shaped tool in the highly adjustable lantern
post gives beautiful results with a minimum of profanity. Of course, you
have to have a good tool grinder. Mine is a cheapie, but I made a good tool
rest (normally set 7 degrees off from the centerline of the wheel) bought a
good "fine" wheel for it and keep the wheel dressed square. I'm the first
to admit I have a lot to learn about the art of grinding tools, but I find I
can make one that does what I want without a whole lot of effort.

1) carbide tools can be run in a lantern toolpost - the type with the
carbide tip brazed to the steel shank.

2) HSS can of course be run in a QC type as well.

3) the best way to use a lantern toolpost is to remove and discard
the 'tool holder' - the forged steel item that is typically used
with its shank in the lantern toolpost, and the HSS blank held in
the end with a square setscrew. Instead, use the largest tool which
will fit in the slot of the toolpost, right in the post without any
holder. It will need to be shimmed up to the correct height but
this can be done with other tool bits or with simiar-sized bits
of steel.

The increase in rigidity and the reduction in tool overhang makes
a *big* difference.

Jim


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