"AAvK" wrote in message
news:6pPXd.89$KK5.46@fed1read03...

I bought three new_old_stock Buck Bros. bench chisels ('60's) just to have
a few in the largest sizes, from http://www.craftsmanstudio.com/, these
are
hardened to RC 59.

The blade was sharpened and back-lapped from 220-320-600-1200 papers
for both sides, strictly by hand because my basic honing guide does not
hold
thick blades, I know I did it accurately though.

I cleaned up tenon cheeks (meaning not the tenons themselves), the
end-flats
around the tenons that is, the wood is doug fir. I used the 2" Buck and a
26mm Stubai bench chisel.

But when in use, the Buck took on some nick-burs to the point where it
needs
a complete new honing after only [one_session_of_many_strokes] with a
mallet!!! These burs are sharp enought to feel.

The Stubai chisel was used on the same job for a bit more time than the
Buck
with some equally hard slamming and it took on no nick-burs in the cutting
edge, these are hardened to RC 60. Superior steel from Austria?

I can tell the Buck steel is decent, as it leaves a non gummy medium grey
powder on the paper, the Stubai leaves a non gummy, very light colored
grey
powder (On yellow 220 AO from Norton).

Does anyone suspect I should get a refund on these Bucks? Pictures are on
ABPW with the title " Buck Bros. Chisels " (for searching through the
illegal
mess). Thanks much for any advise but please take all factors of mine into
account...?

--
Alex
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/
I have to ask. What kind of slamming did you do to the chisels. I keep
reading similar posts in the news group. I conclude that the wood is very
hard or . . .

I'm not an expert, but I have built two rocking chairs with over 40 m&t
joints each, using blue handled marples bench chisels and never had that
kind of problem. One chair was walnut and the other was mesquite.

I'm curious if technique might have some bearing on all these bad chisels we
keep hearing about. (Not you, but many other wood workers)

Having written the nonsense above, FWW has a video by Jim Cummings, "Small
Shop. Tips and Techniques". It deals with many things, one of which is
sharpening chisels and includes a very good session on removing the temper
from the steel, shaping the steel as required and then setting the proper
temper.

Also as I re-read my post, I'll add the following.

I keep a leather strop, charged with a sharpening compound close at hand.
When an edge develops a burr, a couple of passes on the strop normally takes
care of it. I don't use scary sharp techniques. I prefer diamond EZ-lap
hones. I suppose I expect chisels to turn under with use.
I think the burring issue is why many wood workers use micro bevels.
I typically do not use them, but on one of my hand planes I do use it.

:-)